A Review Of The Seiko SARV001 Mechanical Watch

As any chronometer aficionado will tell you, mechanical watches tend to get expensive very quickly so it's something of a rarity to see a quality dress watch for under $500 USD, or even $1,000 USD for that matter.

A Review Of The Seiko SARV001 Mechanical Watch
© Nicklaus Walter

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In recent months I've grown an affinity for watches. It all began with my unexpected love for the charmingly utilitarian Casio F-91W, and was quickly followed by the more sophisticated Casio AE-1200 which I've also become quite fond of. I wear each of them for different purposes, and these days they've become an essential everyday carry that I no longer want to go without. Without question, Casios are great gateway drugs into horology, but where does one go from there?

I was looking for something a little more formal for my next timepiece when I stumbled on an online forum post with dozens of watch enthusiasts praising the Seiko SARV001, a mechanical watch exclusive to the Japanese domestic market (JDM). I could instantly see why, it's simply beautiful and exudes the kind of understated elegance that Japanese craftsmanship is known for. Taking a mental note, I figured it would be fun to see if I can acquire one the next time I'm in Japan.

Lo and behold, I happened to be in Kobe, Japan a couple of months later so this would be the perfect opportunity. After checking into the hotel and getting myself settled, I did a brief search on Google Maps for Seiko dealers in the area which pointed me to Miyako Seiko Watch Salon which was only a few minutes walk away. To my delight, they had the watch in stock for under $180 USD, and the staff were incredibly helpful by taking the time to adjust the bracelet size to my wrist, set the date / time, and explain the warranty card to me.

© Nicklaus Walter

Now after having returned home and spent some quality time with the Seiko SARV001, I think it's worth exploring whether there's any value in going out of your way to purchase a JDM only watch that can't easily be acquired outside of Japan.

Build Quality & Size

The Seiko SARV001 measures in at 51.5mm x 42mm x 11.6mm, with 42mm being the watch case diameter. This is slightly on the larger side but it still looks well balanced even on smaller wrists like mine. The case and bracelet are made of stainless steel with an overall build quality that feels outstanding and no signs of corners being cut anywhere. Speaking of the bracelet, the watch sports 22mm drilled lugs which makes it quick to replace the watch strap if desired.

The crystal glass is made from Seiko's well regarded proprietary material known as Hardlex. While not as scratch resistant as the more expensive sapphire watches, Hardlex is actually more durable and less prone to shattering. That's a worthy tradeoff in order to keep the price down in my book.

The Seiko SARV001 has a satisfying weight to it when worn on the wrist. You'll know it's there, but I'm sure most would agree that it's a pleasant sensation rather than being a burden. In contrast to the otherwise excellent Casio AE1200 that I wear almost daily, much to my relief this watch bracelet does not pull or tug at arm hairs.

Rounding out its build quality, the watch includes a respectable 100mm water resistance so that you don't need to worry about splashes. It's also whisper quiet in operation, and the ticking can only be heard when held directly next to your ear. And lastly, the gorgeous rear window allows you to see the inner workings of the watch which is truly fascinating to look at while it's ticking.

© Nicklaus Walter

Features

While simplicity is the name of the game in terms of the Seiko SARV001's feature set, it offers just enough to make it useful without being overwhelming. I found its operation to be straightforward and no manual is needed to set everything up.

Inside, you'll find Seiko's proven 4R36 automatic movement for precise daily time keeping, along with 24 jewels to reduce friction and maintain an ongoing high level of accuracy. Battery free operation is arguably one of the most appealing features of a mechanical watch, and the Seiko SARV001 is no different with a middle of the road power reserve of 41 hours.

The most eye catching features of the watch are found on the exquisite white cream dial. It's nearly effortless to read the time in low light thanks to the reflective hands and indices that radiate light in a remarkably efficient manner. Perhaps even more noteworthy is the unique date / calendar window that can be displayed in either English or Japanese Kanji.

Finally, not to be overlooked is the design of the Seiko SARV001's brilliant stainless steel bracelet. With a one push three fold clasp, it feels super secure with a reassuring lock that can't be accidentally unfastened.

© Nicklaus Walter

Pros

  • Fantastic value at under $180 USD
  • Very beautiful and equally durable
  • 100m water resistance
  • Drilled 22mm lugs for quick strap changes
  • Easy to read reflective dial, even in low light
  • Option to choose from English or Japanese Kanji date wheel and can be adjusted on the fly
  • Stainless steel bracelet does not pull on arm hairs

Cons

  • Only available in Japan
  • Hardlex crystal is not as scratch resistant as sapphire
© Nicklaus Walter

Verdict

As any chronometer aficionado will tell you, mechanical watches tend to get expensive very quickly so it's something of a rarity to see a quality dress watch for under $500 USD, or even $1,000 USD for that matter. If you're just starting out in your collection and are looking for a model with refined sophistication that punches well above its price point, the Seiko SARV001 should be your first dress watch. It offers a wide range of versatility in that it can easily be your casual daily driver and at the same time won't look out of place at a business meeting or when paired with a suit.

Given the fact that the Seiko SARV001 is only sold in Japan, is it worth the hassle of acquisition? If you happen to be in Japan it's definitely a no-brainer to pick one up. However, even if you aren't able to travel to East Asia, this watch is so good that it still makes sense to seek one out by other means.

The Seiko SARV001 offers an unbelievable value for a proper dress watch, and could easily last a lifetime if well taken care of. In some ways, the fact that its a JDM only timepiece makes it feel exclusive without being expensive. You'll see no buyer's remorse from me, and I'm sure you won't regret it either.

© Nicklaus Walter